ROPES AND PRO...

With all gear, light is important. The less you carry the faster and longer you can move.

ROPES;

There is shit load to know about rope types, stretching and sheaths and for the main part its only interesting or useful for rope engineers. For winter alpine routes there are a few combinations of rope techniques you can use.

For winter climbing its best to have a pretty new rope. Ropes are less elastic when they are freezing cold and a new rope is less likely to absorb water and turn in to stiff shapes making it lighter and easier to use.

60m is adequate, in multi-pitch routes the fewer times you have to set up belay the faster you can complete the climb, and the faster you can abseil off if necessary.

No rope;
Fast but obviously not as safe. Ok if you are not pushing your technical difficulty and or have to move fast under serac risk. Un-roped climbing is incredibly dangerous where one mistake can kill you.

Twin ropes;
The safest practical method. However two full ropes are a bit heavy and wieght is an issue

Two half ropes;
A popular method where two half ropes are used, remembering to clip in both ropes at every quickdraw to have full strength. Cuts wieght down and allows climbers to absiel off a full rope length at a time.

One thick rope and one thin rope;
Another system which saves wieght, also often used for when hauling is necessary.

One rope;
Not a great idea, and few people climb with one rope on large routes. One rope severly limits your speed and ability to abseil off the mountain. However, more useful if you are on a snow plodding route where the climber will not be required to absiel off the route.

You can find a selection of ropes here

PROTECTION

Ice screws
There are many ice screws out there. CHEAP SCREWS ARE NO GOOD. I have tried some French ones at around 18 euros each, and Mountain Technology ones at £25. Basically the French ones had too much resistance from poor manufacture finishing and would only go in to ice about an inch before there was too much resistance and it would go in no further. The Mountain Technology, went in, but as it was tapered due to cheap manufacturing technique it fractured the ice all around it, something I would not like to trust.

Black Diamond, Grivel, DMM all make good screws. But right now, the daddy of all screws has to be the Grivel Helix Ice Screw. Intelligently designed it is balanced when trying to screw it in making it easy to bite, truly great.

A note on Ice Screw care. Do not let them go rusty, not even in the slightest. As a student I borrowed some which had been left in a bag – perhaps to go a bit rusty and look ‘more used’ – or something. They only had a dusting of rust, and screws which previously flew in to the ice were stiff and very difficult to use. A slight amount of rust makes a large amount of friction when pressed against ice on all sides.

Hex + Nuts;
Very route dependant but its worth taking three Hexs for example , always bring nuts. Solid ones are better as you can bash them in with your hammer if they are not settling well. A good nut placement is better than a screw.

Friends;
Depends entirely on the route of course, but taking a set of three is a good bet for general mountaineering. Example friend set; Wild country 3,4,5

Pitons;
Solid chaps when put in right. Best on horizontal cracks. Hit them until the ping! The lost arrow wedge type ones are heavier than the bent iron type but are said to damage the rock less.

Bolts;
Bolts are fine on for sports climbing etc.. However putting them up on mountain routes seriously damages the style of the route; thus ruining the climb for other climbers. Bolts are only a way of lowering a climb to your own ability. Lame.

Ab tat;
6 - 8mm climbing rope type cord. Get enough for the routes you plan to do, it can prevent you from losing your more expensive gear. Some dislike abtat as it litters up the mountain. However if you take down any old tatty stuff when you can it will help to keep the popular routes litter free. Don’t trust insitu, or other geer for that matter. You do not know how long it has been there.

Belay device;
Black Diamond ATC XP is ideal. The grips allow you to hold the rope locked off easily when you have cold hands.

Quick draws;
Wire gates are less likely to get jammed up with ice and tend to be lighter. A decent size gate opening can help when setting up belays and clipping with gloves. Light is obviously better.

Harness;
One with gear loops. Try to keep it light. Have used walking harnesses and normal climbing harnesses. If it’s steep something with leg padding can be a bonus!

Helmets;
A must! Rock falling, ice presents from your partner above, you falling, head injuries are likely so always wear a helmet. Best to avoid the polystyrene ones as they will only really take one hit. Petzl Ecrin, etc…

Shovel;
Get out of those hill hotels and dig your self some five star accomodation. Plastic shovels are for skiers and not really up to the job of serious snowhold digging. We have tried tested used and abused a Black Diamond Tele Lynx snow shovel and its fantastic.

N Murphy

Feel that you can write this section better?